Roman chef Giovanni Passerini’s modern trattoria near the Gare de Lyon, with home-made pasta and large cuts for sharing.
Gault&Millau France 2026: 14/20; Guide MICHELIN France 2026: recommended
Giovanni Passerini comes from Rome and has cooked for years away from the Parisian starred restaurants. On Rue Traversière, two minutes’ walk from the Gare de Lyon, he runs a contemporary trattoria with an open kitchen and pared-back design. In 2026 Gault&Millau counts it among the best Italian addresses in the area and praises serious, technically precise cooking. The Guide MICHELIN describes it as convivial and in great demand.
The menu goes beyond the classics without losing its Roman roots: trippa alla romana features here as well as linguine with meagre in carpione, a tangy marinade. A speciality is large cuts for sharing, such as a whole pigeon served in two courses, or milk-fed lamb of the Basque Manech tête noire breed. The pasta is made by hand in house. For dessert there is, for example, rice pudding with melon granita and amaretti.
Passerini suits an easy yet discerning lunch or dinner. Gault&Millau gives set formulas of €34 to €52 per person excluding drinks. If you want to take the cooking home, there is the Pastificio Passerini with fresh pasta and Italian delicatessen. Opposite, the team runs Passerina, a wine bar with small plates to share. Tables can be booked online and by phone.
Good to know: Lunch only Wednesday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to Saturday; closed on Sunday and Monday. According to the Guide MICHELIN, booking early is advisable.
Information checked in October 2026 against the sources listed; the editors have not tested the restaurant. Photos on this page are illustrations and do not show the restaurant.
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